Washing machine
On the door frame with the door open, or high up on the back. On some brands it is also behind the filter flap.
Search by the code on the rating plate
Type the appliance code, not its name.
The search works on the full code from the rating plate, on the part code and on equivalent codes. Half a code is enough.
No plate at hand? Take a photo and send it to us — we will look it up.
Or go straight in
Before anything else
Find the plate, then look for the part
The brand and the “model” on the box are not enough: the same commercial model had three series with different parts. The full code is on the plate.
Fridge
Inside, on the left wall, next to the salad drawer. On fridge-freezers it is under the bottom drawer.
Oven and hob
On the door frame, left or right, visible with the door open. On hobs it is on the underside, so you read it when you lift the hob out.
Dishwasher
On the door frame with the door open, at the top or on the side.
Extractor hood
Under the hood, once the grease filter is out.
Vacuum cleaner
On the underside or inside the bag compartment.
Take a photo of the plate and send it to us: we will find the part, you type nothing.
Before you buy
What the appliance does and what to check, in order
The order matters: start with the cheapest part and the easiest one to get out. Often the expensive one is not needed at all.
It does not drain 4 to check
- The pump filter (clean it first, for free)
- The drain pump
- The drain hose
- The pressure switch
In three cases out of four it is a blocked filter, not a burnt pump.
Water on the floor 4 to check
- The door seal
- The inlet hose and its fitting
- The detergent drawer
- The tub
Wipe the floor dry and run a short programme: you will see where the water starts.
It is noisy on the spin 4 to check
- Foreign objects in the tub
- The bearings
- The shock absorbers
- The counterweight and its bolts
Turn the drum by hand: a “sandy” sound means the bearings.
It does not heat the water 4 to check
- The heating element
- The thermostat
- The temperature sensor
- The control board
Put your hand on the door glass on a 60 °C programme, after 20 minutes.
Unplug the appliance before you check anything.
Parts people looked for this week
The appliance, by group of parts
The position numbers are the ones from the maker’s diagram, not our own numbering.
13positions, added up from the groups below
- Door seal
- Door hinge
- Door catch
- Porthole glass
The group behind most water leaks.
- Drain pump
- Pump filter
- Drain hose
- Pressure switch
Check in the order above, starting with the cheapest.
- Front bearing
- Rear bearing
- Shaft seal
- Drive belt
- Shock absorber
Replace as a set; a single bearing does not last.
If your position is not in the list, send us the appliance code and we will tell you which group it is.
By type of appliance
How long it takes, step by step
We measured the minutes on the bench; they are not taken from the manual.
1 h 10 minin total, added up from the steps below
- Unplugging and draining the waterEasy 10 min 14% of the total A shallow tray and a cloth
- Taking the panel offEasy 15 min 21% of the total Torx T20 screwdriver, ratchet
- Swapping the partMedium 25 min 36% of the total Pliers, 8 mm and 10 mm spanners
- Refitting and the test runEasy 20 min 29% of the total A short programme with the appliance pulled out from the wall, so you can see whether it still leaks.
Measured by us on the bench, on ten appliances from each range.
The first time takes longer. The figures are for someone who has done it once before.
How we work
The right part is cheaper than a new appliance
We do not sell “universal parts that fit everything”. We sell the part that fits your code, and we write down how we know.
Fit
We check the code, not the brand
The same commercial model had three series with different parts. That is why we ask for the full code from the rating plate before we confirm the order.
Originals and equivalents
We write which is which
The original part and the equivalent sit side by side, each with its price and its code. We do not sell an equivalent at the price of an original.
Returns
A part that did not fit goes back
If the part does not fit and you have not fitted it, you get your money back within 14 days. A fitted part cannot be resold, so it is not returnable.
Fit confirmed in writing
On the code from the plate, not on the brand.
Originals and equivalents, kept apart
With each one’s code written down.
Repair time measured
On the bench, not taken from the manual.
Returns on an unfitted part
Within 14 days, in its packaging.
Questions before you order
What people ask us most often, on the phone.
Why do you ask for the code on the plate instead of just the model?
Because the same commercial model was built in several series, with different parts. The full code on the plate is the only thing that says which series you own.
What is the difference between an original part and an equivalent?
The original comes from the appliance maker, the equivalent from someone else who makes the same part. We always write which is which and give both codes.
Is it worth repairing or should I buy a new one?
Our rule: if the part plus fitting costs more than half a new appliance, we tell you not to buy it. We write it in the quote, even when it costs us the sale.
What if it does not fit?
Piesa nemontată se întoarce în 14 zile, în ambalajul ei. Dacă potrivirea a fost confirmată de noi și tot nu a intrat, plătim noi transportul înapoi.
How many years do you keep parts for an appliance?
It depends on the maker. For every brand we write how many years it keeps parts, with the source next to the figure.
Do you fit parts as well?
For the big parts, yes, in our town. For the small ones we write on the page how long the swap takes and which tools you need, so you can decide to do it yourself.
Cannot find your question? Write to us, we answer the same working day.
New parts and compatibility lists
One email when parts for new brands arrive or when we extend the model lists.